Omnivore - Where to get your non-latte pumpkin fix in Atlanta

Where to find real pumpkin spices while fake pumpkin spiced latte season is upon us.

Image

  • Zach Meloy
  • Better Half’s pumpkin soup about to be poured table-side



Behold, the season of everyone’s favorite festive gourd is in full swing. In Atlanta, October means pumpkin fever. Unfortunately for true devotees, the delicious (and nutritious) allure of pumpkin tends to get lost in a sea of cheesy pumpkin gimmicks (pumpkin spiced Oreos, Pop Tarts, or chewing gum, anyone?). And, of course, the grandaddy of them all, pumpkin spiced lattes, which are everywhere.

Don’t let the gimmicks put you off pumpkin completely. There’s some good stuff out there if you know where to look. Here are our five best bets for getting your pumpkin fix without the cavities or coffee breath:

Pumpkin soup at Better Half
Soup, the elemental comfort food of fall, is perhaps the perfect thing to be pumpkin spiced. At Better Half, chef Zachary Meloy presents spiced pumpkin soup in two parts. First comes the garnishes of crisp grilled pumpkin and burned onion in a bowl. The base of the spiced pumpkin soup with espresso milk is then poured over table-side. It’s an interactive experience that allows guests to see the ingredients before liquid is added — fanfare that the pumpkin season deserves. 349 14th St. N.W. 404-695-4547. www.betterhalfatl.com.

? ? ?
Pumpkin tea cakes at the Little Tart Bake Shop
Whether you pick them up at The Little Tart Bakeshop in Grant Park or at one of the local farmers markets in town, the spiced pumpkin tea cakes from The Little Tart will indulge the pumpkin spice craving through the fall. Not too sweet and super moist, the soft crumbly bits flavored with local, organic pumpkin, nutmeg, clove, and cinnamon are a delightful breakfast indulgence. The addition of pepitas (raw, hulled pumpkin seeds) adds texture and crunch. 437 Memorial Dr. 404-348-4797. www.littletartatl.com.

Buttercup pumpkin ice cream at Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams
A riff on classic pumpkin soup in Europe, where amaretti cookies are crumbled upon it as garnish, Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams has a new flavor: Buttercup Pumpkin with Amaretti Cookies. The heirloom Buttercup pumpkins have been grown for Jeni’s exclusively by two family farms and are caramelized then pulverized into a sweet cream. The amaretti cookies are baked in house and mixed in for spicy notes. Soon we will be able to enjoy this flavor in the Decatur Square (anticipated fall 2014) and Krog Street Market (also anticipated fall 2014). 1198 Howell Mill Road. 404-355-6050. www.jenis.com.

The Great Rumkin cocktail at the Luminary
The balance among pumpkin flavor, sweetness, and spices is a delicate dance especially when adding spirits. Bartender Ian Cox at the Luminary crafts pie-in-a-glass richness with his the Great Rumkin cocktail. Pumpkin spice-infused rum, pumpkin puree that lends a natural orange hue, crème de cacao, and a topping of lightly whipped cream and shaved cinnamon blend seamlessly for a satisfying, boozy sip of pumpkin pie. 99 Krog St., Suite Y. 404-600-6199. www.theluminaryatl.com.

Pumpkin and squash at One Midtown Kitchen
Nothing infuses flavors like the embers of a wood-fired oven. On the menu now at One Midtown Kitchen is a dish of wood-fired pumpkin and squash with chickpeas, a tahini vinaigrette, and yogurt. The richness and sweetness of the caramelized pumpkin is kicked up with ras el hanout, a combination of spices from Northern Africa including clove and cinnamon. The dish would pair perfectly with an acidic, off-dry Vouvray to cut the buttery richness. Just sayin.’ 559 Dutch Valley Road. 404-892-4111. www.onemidtownkitchen.com.